CPU running toooo hot? Try this ML 240L RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
If I remember
correctly the first cpu heat sink (Passive Air Cooling) I saw was on the Intel
386 processor, the first heat sink with a fan was on the Pentium 4, however the
DIY'r had been innovative with heat sinks and fans as far back as the 486 and
486DX which brings me to the latest innovation in cooling technology: Liquid
is much like the cooling for a engine in a car (notice I wrote engine not motor
- engine's are chemical power, motor's are electrical), it is an active system
consisting of a block of metal the coolant will circulate through then with
hoses or in some cases pipes the coolant will circulate through another block of
metal that has very thin passages for the coolant and the transporter (air) to
pass through. the air passing through one side of the metal draws away the heat
from the coolant on the other side of the metal. Thus it is considered an "heat
exchanger" the coolant is then returned to the metal block that is absorbing the
heat, the coolant is heated then sent back to the other metal block.
For the computer cpu the metal block is called a "heat
sink" for the cooler the metal
block is called a "radiator". Add the tubes or hoses to connect the heat sink to
the radiator and you have an efficient way to remove excessive and damaging heat
from a processor. To help the radiator expel the heat from the radiator an
electrical fan is added.
The last computer I built I had a Core 2 Quad Q9650
processor, it ran hot but the Thermaltake heat sink and fan worked quite well,
now I have an Intel i7-9700K that has turbo, this cpu can run at 4.9 GHz
constontly. Air or Passive cooling doesn't remove the heat fast enough, the cpu
will burn up, not instantly but over time (a short time) it will burn up.
Why doesn't burn up as soon as the cpu hits it's 4.9GHz?
Sensors built into the cpu and motherboard, they will curtail power to a point
where the cpu is protected or shut the computer down. You may have experanced
the sensor curtailing the cpu, when you are using a program and all the sudden
your program closes and you are back at the desktop. That was a warning that the
cpu was getting to hot or over heating and if you continue with out increasing
the cooling for the processor it will burn up.
How would you increase the cooling from passive or
active cooling to a point where the processor will be stable and not burn up
when in turbo mode at 4.9 GHz or more?
The way I did it:
A review of the ML 240L RGB AIO CPU Liquid Cooler
A. Quiet Cooling Fan Technology - By using noise
reduction technology and sound absorbing rubber pads for lower fan noise even
when the fan is at 100%.
B. Fan Design - Aerodynamic blade design of both jet engine and helicopter rotor
blade gives you needed cooling without sacrificing airflow.
C. Pump Dissipation - The low-profile two chamber pump delivers a large
performance increase over past gen technology
D. With Wired LED - For customize colors and LED effects
E. Processor Socket Support: Intel and AMD (Check web site for details)
ML 240L Dimensions:
The fan is 120mm (approximately 4 3/4 x 4
The radiator is approximately 6 1/4 x 4 3/4
x 1 inch (Height x Width x Thick)
The hoses are approximately 8 inches long from the cpu
heat sink/pump block to the radiator
The AIO Pump/heat sink will vary in size according to
the processor to be cooled.
ML 240L Connections:
A. Your motherboard must support the AIO/Pump, you could
use a normal motherboard fan connector however with out the BIOS and motherboard
AIO connector the BIOS and/or software can not control the speed of the pump.
This AIO/Pump connector has a four pin connector, this gives the BIOS control
over how fast the pump runs thus increasing the flow of the coolant when
temperatures reach a certain level.
B. The fan, this connector will be connected to the four
pin connector labeled "cpu fan" (on ASUS motherboards) the reason you need the
four pin connector is for the BIOS to control the speed of the fan, slower
speeds means less cooling and lower noise, however when the temperature rises
the speed of the fan needs to increase otherwise the processor will overheat and
the system will shut down.
The radiator and fan, the short hoses/tubes will dictate
where you mount the fan/radiator combination. The kit has mounting brackets for
the cooling block/pump and screws long enough to pass through the mounting holes
in the fan to attach to the nut plates in the radiator.
8 inch hoses you will need to consider where and how the
fan/radiator are mounted. Another consideration for this liquid
cooler is which way the fan will pass air
through the radiator. On the side of the fan are two arrows, one will indicate
which direction the air is exhausted from the fan (air flow out) and the other
will indicate the rotation of the fan. You could mount the fan to pull air
through the radiator or push air through the radiator. If your case does not
have an opening large enough to mount the fan/radiator to either push or pull
air through (120mm) you may have to improvise a way to mount the fan/radiator.
For air flow the best option is to pull air through the radiator and exhaust it
out of the computer case; that is how I mounted the liquid
cooler in my new computer.